Fresh Corn Chowder

In the spirit of cooking seasonally, I was inspired to make fresh corn chowder on Sunday afternoon. One of my favorite restaurants in Boston, Todd English's Kingfish Hall, had a wonderful corn chowder on their menu. Sadly, it is no longer offered. Their version used pancetta for a wonderful combination of rich flavors.

My recent corn chowder was inspired by a sign at Gary’s Farm Stand, in Littleton, MA: “Last chance for fresh corn.” I bought eight ears, then visited another favorite stand, Verrill Farm, in Concord, MA. There I found excellent late-season, farm-fresh carrots, onions, and leeks. Both are just 15 minutes from our home in Boston's rural northwestern suburbs.

I want to share my general methodology, starting with the ham. I used a locally- produced ham, without any nitrates (as a healthier, delicious alternative). I cubed the ham, and browned it in a large stockpot.

Diced onions followed as soon as the ham was suitably browned. I added enough olive oil to sauté the onions with the ham. Once the onions were translucent, I opened a bottle of beer. Beer and wine are some of my favorite liquids for deglazing pans. So, half the bottle went into the pan. The other half refreshed the chef as he cooked.

Once the pan was deglazed, I added two small cans of chicken broth, and enough water to fill the pan halfway.

The remaining vegetables were chopped and cubed in order of “density” and length of time needed to cook. (I did very little prep work ahead of time; ingredients were chopped and added as they were prepared.) Since the carrots and potatoes were fresh and clean, I opted to leave the peel on. This also gave the chowder that rustic, country touch. Leeks and celery were also added.

Let’s not forget the corn! Fresh corn was cut directly from the cob. Use the back of a knife to scrape the cobs to get as much of the “corn milk” as possible.

Three bay leaves, savory and oregano were added for herbs, along with coarse salt and freshly-ground black pepper. After simmering for about 30 minutes, the “tasting” began. I added a few dashes of Worcester sauce, and more salt. Worcester adds a nice backnote of complexity.

After an hour of simmering and tasting, the chowder was done. I removed it from the heat and added milk. Never add milk while liquid is still boiling; the soup curdles and separates. I prefer lighter chowder, with milk instead of the traditional heavy cream. The taste is wonderful, and it’s healthier too! The chowder came together very well, and my wife gave it her enthusiastic seal of approval.

Feel free to create your own soup. Use the best, freshest ingredients you can get. If you use meat, caramelizing brings out great flavor. Make sure to deglaze the pan! Consider beer or wine as a deglazing agent. Add vegetables in good proportions to balance flavors. Sautéed onions and carrots add sweetness. You can use water or stock as the base liquid. Add seasonings and add salt gradually. Take care when using ham, since it also is a source of salt. Once the soup comes to a boil, turn the heat down to let it simmer. An hour of simmering should be fine. Don’t over-cook and create mushy vegetables.

Fresh Corn Chowder Recipe

* Use a large stock pot, 6 to 8 quart capacity.
* Brown cubed ham.
* Add drizzle of olive oil, and add onions. Cook until translucent.
* Add 1/2 bottle of beer (pilsner) or white wine to deglaze pan.
* Add carrots, potatoes, leeks and fresh corn.
* Season with bay leaves, savory, oregano, salt, pepper and Worcester sauce.
* Bring to a boil, then simmer for one hour.
* Add milk.
* Test vegetables for doneness. Add more salt and pepper to taste.

Ingredients

1-2 pounds Cubed Ham
3 Tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 cups Diced Onions
1/2 bottle or can of beer
2 small cans chicken broth
6-8 cups water
1 pound Diced Carrots
1 pound Diced Potatoes
1 Leek Chopped
2 cups Freshly cut corn (off the cob, 6-8 ears)
3 Bay Leaves
1 tsp Savoury
1/2 tsp Oregano
3 Tbsp Worcester Sauce (optional)
4 cups milk (or to taste)
Salt & Pepper to taste

ENJOY!